Three or four years planning - 1,747 miles executing:
(This image above is the label from a bottle of Guinness that my uncle Jim, Frances' dad, bottled at his pub in our home place of Essexford, Co. Louth Ireland.)
My Irish cousin (Frances), my wife (Mags) and I began discussing this music trip several years ago and now that Mags has retired, the rubber hit the road. Oct 1 to Oct 14.
Frances' late husband (Red) was a great Blues singer in Dublin.
I have heard him sing, live once at a family wedding but mostly on CD and he really was a great singer.
Reportedly during an interview on Irish Radio , many years ago, Red was asked why he didn't sing professionally. He was certainly good enough.
He supposedly replied "Because I have bills to pay". Good answer I thought.
Reminds me of the old joke "What's the difference between a musician and a large pizza?" answer "The pizza can feed a family of four". Not funny if you are a musician.
Frances and I grew up in the same part of rural Ireland. We were neighbors in addition to being first cousins.
Essexford is a crossroads on the Louth / Monaghan Border. Three miles from Inniskeen the center of Patrick Kavanagh Country
Growing up here in the 50's and 60's was as rough and tough as you could get. So we were confident The South wouldn't intimidate us.
Mags has been visiting Essexford since '75.
She was amused back then by the unwarranted sense of superiority she encountered.
The parish, Killanny, was predominantly poor, despite the impression its huge Gothic church might give.
Essexford was so rural a location it was surrounded by two bogs, yet it had none of the beauty of Donegal or Connemara.
Mags, being an astute woman, quickly figured out that sense of superiority was a veneer. Covering, at least in me, a significant inferiority complex.
We encountered a similar complex in Listowel, the place where Mags grew up, in our travels earlier this year.
The misplaced Listowel sense of superiority was echoed by a young woman we met later on this trip in Clarksdale, MS of all places.
It's interesting that Essexford is tangentially associated with one of Ireland's greatest poets, Patrick Kavanagh. Meanwhile Listowel is directly associated with a number of literary figures, John B. Keane to name but one, and with the annual Writers Week Festival.
Sorry, I digress.
Road Maps vs Google Maps:
One of my travel mottos since retirement has been "Google gets me there too fast".
So road maps it was.
According to Hertz we drove a total of 1,747 miles.
Mags and I actually visited a book shop to buy our maps, Barnes and Noble no less.
They had several but not all of the Rand McNally Maps we needed. I found it amusing that they told us to order what we needed online and it would be delivered to the store for free.
Instead I had them order them for us and notify us when the product arrived.
According to Hertz we drove a total of 1,747 miles.
Mags and I actually visited a book shop to buy our maps, Barnes and Noble no less.
They had several but not all of the Rand McNally Maps we needed. I found it amusing that they told us to order what we needed online and it would be delivered to the store for free.
Instead I had them order them for us and notify us when the product arrived.
We needed maps of Georgia, Tennessee, Mississippi, Louisiana, and Alabama. But we also crossed into Arkansas twice, the first time just to bag another State and the second time to visit Helena to check out a Blues Festival we heard about.
I wanted to avoid Freeway driving so by using my Maps and Google I planned out each days drive to avoid them.
The broad outline was Atlanta, Chattanooga, Nashville to Memphis following the Natchez Trace as much as possible.
Memphis to New Orleans via the Mississippi Delta stopping at Clarksdale MS, Natchex MS and Vicksburg MS along the way.
The broad outline was Atlanta, Chattanooga, Nashville to Memphis following the Natchez Trace as much as possible.
Memphis to New Orleans via the Mississippi Delta stopping at Clarksdale MS, Natchex MS and Vicksburg MS along the way.
I first planned out routes on Google Maps ,from the comfort of my own home, that met my needs and then saved them off line in Google Keep.
Once I figured out how to re-use these maps they were great. In conjunction with our paper maps.
I must admit I am a Google fan, despite working with Microsoft all my active career.
I have even moved my phone service to Google Fi recently.
Google Fi worked great on this trip BTW.
(Update: April 2020 - Google Fi during a software update designated my phone number in-active. I noticed it immediately because I couldnt make or recieve a call.
But not before they had returned my number to its original povider.
They gave me a temporary number.
It's now months later and I still have the temporary number.)
I also simplified our trip planning significantly be deciding to stay exclusively at the Marriott Hotel chain, where possible, throughout the trip.
And with two exceptions we did stay, happily, at Marriott.
Once I figured out how to re-use these maps they were great. In conjunction with our paper maps.
I must admit I am a Google fan, despite working with Microsoft all my active career.
I have even moved my phone service to Google Fi recently.
Google Fi worked great on this trip BTW.
(Update: April 2020 - Google Fi during a software update designated my phone number in-active. I noticed it immediately because I couldnt make or recieve a call.
But not before they had returned my number to its original povider.
They gave me a temporary number.
It's now months later and I still have the temporary number.)
I also simplified our trip planning significantly be deciding to stay exclusively at the Marriott Hotel chain, where possible, throughout the trip.
And with two exceptions we did stay, happily, at Marriott.
Tip for using saved Google Maps:
When you launch a saved Map the "Start" button does not show up.
You must remove the starting point from the displayed map and then the "Start" button appears taking you from your current location to your first stop.
A quick look at the 1,747 mile trip:
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| Atlanta to Vicksburg via Nashville and Memphis |
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| Vicksburg to New Orleans to Atlanta |
Atlanta:
Having just said we stayed at Marriott Hotels throughout the trip Atlanta was one of the exceptions.
When I went to book a hotel in Atlanta there was obviously something on in the city and so hotel prices in downtown or midtown had skyrocketed to way outside our max $200-$250 per night budget.
So in Atlanta we stayed, instead, in a magnificent AirBnB.
Earlier this summer we had stayed in 8 AirBnB's. 4 in Europe and 4 in Ireland.
Following our European AirBnB trip Mags coined an expression which beautifully describes our AirBnB experiences to date: "One cannot fairly judge an AirBnB until after you have gotten over your initial disappointment".
Following our European AirBnB trip Mags coined an expression which beautifully describes our AirBnB experiences to date: "One cannot fairly judge an AirBnB until after you have gotten over your initial disappointment".
I was delighted when we arrived at our AirBnB in Atlanta and their was no disappointment at all.
The AirbnB apartment was very fancy.
Real urban living.
Two bedroom two bathroom at a reasonable in budget rate.
Real urban living.
Two bedroom two bathroom at a reasonable in budget rate.
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| View from Apartment in Atlanta. |
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| View at Dawn |
Located at the corner of 12th Ave and Crescent, in the heart of midtown Atlanta, the apartment was everything it advertised to be.
Great restaurants all along Crescent (wish we had known that the night we arrived).
Great restaurants all along Crescent (wish we had known that the night we arrived).
Despite it being October it was almost 100F when we arrived.
It was late evening, like 8pm, when picked up our rental car.
Google said there was a 7 minute traffic slow down between us and our apartment.
It ended up being a 70 minute delay. We should have eaten at the airport before we started out because by the time we got in it was too late to explore and find stuff. So we went to sleep a wee bit hungry.
We didn't spot the Irish pub, on our doorstep, till the following morning.
It ended up being a 70 minute delay. We should have eaten at the airport before we started out because by the time we got in it was too late to explore and find stuff. So we went to sleep a wee bit hungry.
We didn't spot the Irish pub, on our doorstep, till the following morning.
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| Irish pub next to apartment. We didn't go in. |
Atlanta - things we wanted to do and things we did:
TripAdviser suggests the CocaCola museum and CNN Center as things to do. Mags and I had previously visited them both. Not our thing really, but hey, fill your boots as they say.
One cannot/should not visit Atlanta without planning time to explore the birthplace and National Park of Martin Luther King.
Our National Parks are a magnificent treasure.
The MLK National Park is no exception.
Really excellent. moving and beautiful. Well worth 3 - 4 hours.
Our National Parks are a magnificent treasure.
The MLK National Park is no exception.
Really excellent. moving and beautiful. Well worth 3 - 4 hours.
We also visited the Atlanta Botanical Gardens, Our consensus is its overpriced and not worth it.
We had hoped to visit Jimmy Carter's Presidential Library but never made it there.
I have previously visited a couple of other Presidential Libraries and they are all worth an hour or two.
My favorite so far has been Bill Clinton's. But maybe that's because Mags' relative Albert Reynolds is featured significantly throughout Clinton's library. For his role in the Northern Ireland Good Friday Agreement.
My favorite so far has been Bill Clinton's. But maybe that's because Mags' relative Albert Reynolds is featured significantly throughout Clinton's library. For his role in the Northern Ireland Good Friday Agreement.
Atlanta and Martin Luther King Jnr.:
We both agree that we could return and revisit all the MLK history in Atlanta again and again. It's mind expanding, moving and massively relevant.
Even though we had a rental car, I didn't want to be bothered with inner city driving and parking so we took Atlanta's public transport to get to the National Park.
Atlanta's public transport is called MARTA. Metro Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority.
I had to look up what MARTA stood for.
It's a good efficient and affordable system.
I had to look up what MARTA stood for.
It's a good efficient and affordable system.
MARTA consists of trains, streetcar and buses. We used the trains (subway and over ground) and the streetcar.
We took the Redline from Midtown to Five Points changed to the Blue Line to King Memorial.
The King Memorial station takes you close to the MLK National Park, but you are still looking at a 10 - 15 minute walk.
It's not the length of the walk that intimidates, but the locale you walk through is not for the faint of heart. It didn't bother us, but then we are immigrants living in LA. But Mags would probably not walk there alone at any time of the day or night.
I hope Atlanta City Council looks at the issue of providing public transport to the gates of the magnificent MLK National Park.
At least put a walking map up at the Memorial train station that will take tourists to the park on a route the city prefers.
Don't leave it up to Google.
At least put a walking map up at the Memorial train station that will take tourists to the park on a route the city prefers.
Don't leave it up to Google.
Some images from the area:
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| MLK Birthplace |
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| Warden said his spirit is in the backyard. He played here as a child |
When we were done at the park we asked for best directions back to midtown. We were advised by a park ranger that the street car would take us directly to midtown for $1.
The street car doesn't stop outside the park either but is a 5 minute walk away. Again it's not a nice walk.
We found the streetcar stop, bought our two tickets for $1 each and were treated to a more scenic trip to Five Points train station in mid-town than we had experienced on the train earlier.
Eating in Atlanta:
A note about GRITS. My opinion - they would make good wallpaper paste.
Try them once, twice even three times and then give it up. (We tried three times on this trip).
The WIKI page link is worth a read regarding GRITS.
We ate breakfast on day 1 in the restaurant of the Four Seasons Hotel around the corner from the apartment. Overpriced but good coffee.
Dinner on day 1 was at Lure on Crescent. Wonderful.
I had fancy Fish 'n Chips. Frances had Gator Gumbo. She was done with gumbo after this experience, too spicy for her. (This worried me a little for Frances. The South after all is the birthplace of Tabasco Sauce, thanks to an immigrant from Donegal no less). Mags had, a chowder style soup I believe, which she thoroughly enjoyed.
Jet lag didn't seem to bother Frances at all. Lucky sod.
I had fancy Fish 'n Chips. Frances had Gator Gumbo. She was done with gumbo after this experience, too spicy for her. (This worried me a little for Frances. The South after all is the birthplace of Tabasco Sauce, thanks to an immigrant from Donegal no less). Mags had, a chowder style soup I believe, which she thoroughly enjoyed.
Jet lag didn't seem to bother Frances at all. Lucky sod.
Breakfast Day 2 was at Joy Cafe on Peachtree Street. We are in Georgia so why not a street called Peachtree.
Joy Cafe had showed up on YELP the previous day but neither we nor google could navigate us to it. Today we found it while looking for something else.
Second attempt at GRITS. Even the waiter was hesitant about "grits". His feeling was they are a nostalgic comfort food that you enjoy if you have grown up with them. I can see that.
Restaurant rating: Overrated and Overpriced.
Joy Cafe had showed up on YELP the previous day but neither we nor google could navigate us to it. Today we found it while looking for something else.
Second attempt at GRITS. Even the waiter was hesitant about "grits". His feeling was they are a nostalgic comfort food that you enjoy if you have grown up with them. I can see that.
Restaurant rating: Overrated and Overpriced.
Our plan was to eat breakfast and dinner each day. And for lunch have an in car snack if required to keep us going.
Driving to Chattanooga:
Day 3 we set off for Chattanooga.
We had decided to forego the Carter Library and replace it with a trip to the Atlanta Botanical Gardens. It came highly recommended.
In our opinion the Gardens are overpriced and over-rated.
Before leaving Atlanta we had to drive to a BestBuy to get a telephone mounting bracket for my phone as it would not connect via CarPlay to the Kia we were driving.
I'm convinced the problem is my older phone.
I'm convinced the problem is my older phone.
The drive through Atlanta to get to BestBuy was eye opening for Frances.
A lot of poverty.
A lot of poverty.
They say Atlanta was once the Paris of the South, nowadays they must mean Paris, Texas.
Etowah Indian Mounds:
On our way to Etowah Mounds we passed my first ever field of cotton. Interesting.
I had planned our route to get to Chattanooga avoiding Interstate Highways but using beautiful country roads. I had planned a visit specifically to Etowah Indian Mounds.
It proved to be a lovely rural drive to get here and a sweet quaint local state park that is well worth a stop.
I'd actually bring a picnic if I were doing it again.
Along the way we crossed a river close to the park. I got this next picture from the bridge.
Later on when we were leaving we crossed a single lane bridge over another part of the river, but sorry no photo.
Atlanta to Chattanooga Route:
Hwy75 to Etowah Indian Mounds, Rte20 to Canton, 140 and 108 and 5 to Jasper, 5 to Elijay, 76 Elijay to Dalton and into Chattanooga.
The drive on Georgia rural roads was very very pretty and relaxing.
Chattanooga:
Chattanooga is mostly in Tennessee, so that meant by day 3 we had visited two states.
Once we crossed the Tennessee River we changed time zones from Eastern to Central. We gained an hour.
Once we crossed the Tennessee River we changed time zones from Eastern to Central. We gained an hour.
Google Maps loudly announced our arrival in each new state, it became a pleasant noise we happily anticipated.
Chattanooga was smaller, more industrial and nicer than I had anticipated.
We stayed in The Marriott Downtown the rooms are fantastic. Much better than the website photos imply. Shower was luxurious.
There is a cool free shuttle from the hotel to downtown, which runs late in the evening.
Chattanooga as well as being located in the State of Tennessee is on the Tennessee river.
So the next morning, we did what I had hoped, and went for a walk along the river walk.
For someone from Ireland the size of these great American rivers is always an impressive sight. Puts the Shannon into perspective.
For someone from Ireland the size of these great American rivers is always an impressive sight. Puts the Shannon into perspective.
The river-walk in Chattanooga is small but lovely.
There are well written signs throughout with a brief history of the Native Americans of the area, including Chattanooga's place in The Trail of Tears. As if the South's role in slavery wasn't enough.
Also parked at the rivers edge we saw an exact replica of La Niña alongside a scale replica of La Pinta.
We were also told by a "reliable" local tourist guide that the Tennessee river water was impeccably clean.
The green hue we could see floating atop the water were algae which could not survive if the water were polluted.
Click the link provided if you wish to read all about Green Algae. Although I am not sure the wiki page actually clears up the question of pollution or not.
The green hue we could see floating atop the water were algae which could not survive if the water were polluted.
Click the link provided if you wish to read all about Green Algae. Although I am not sure the wiki page actually clears up the question of pollution or not.
Another image from the Chattanooga river-walk.
and
Eating in Chattanooga:
Dinner was in The Public House.Definitely noteworthy and great value.
We had Pork Belly, Fried Green Tomatoes, Cobb salad, and Crème Brûlée.
In addition their cocktails were excellent. Their version of a Manhattan made with all local ingredients was delicious.
Tennessee whiskey ... what could go wrong.
Breakfast the next day we went to The Mean Mug CoffeeHouse. I wrote a review on it in Yelp. Here is a link Yelp Review.
We were not impressed. Nor should the business owner be.
It's located right next to a Whole Foods, which is why we selected it. (to get lunch type snacks).
My left knee started bothering me here.
Driving to Nashville:
We didn't dawdle on this drive, but still avoided Interstate Hwys.
Hwy 24 to Monteagle, then 41 to Winchester, 64 to Fayetteville, North then on 231 to Murfreesboro and Nashville.
It was Friday and we wanted to get to Nashville in time to do some exploring.
I didn't take a single photo on this drive..... pity really.
Nashville, Tn:
I've been here a few times before and hope to return a few more times in the future.
If all you did here was spend an evening in The Station Inn the trip would be worth it. Best Bluegrass in the world.
We stayed at Courtyard by Marriott at Opryland because all the downtown hotels had prices way out of our budget. It was a huge football weekend.
Buffalo were playing the Titans. The city was packed with Buffalo fans. Great folk all the way from Buffalo NY.
Buffalo were playing the Titans. The city was packed with Buffalo fans. Great folk all the way from Buffalo NY.
Don't be put off by how far this hotel is from Downtown. There is a shuttle that runs late and for $10 return it will drop you right downtown and return you to your hotel quite late in the evening.
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| Shuttle Bus Instructiions |
The action in Nashville is mainly from 5th. to the river along Broadway and a couple of blocks either side of Broadway. Plus a sidebar for blues to Printers Alley. And the must see of The Station Inn which is in The Gulch area of town.
The strip along Broadway was jam packed crazy and wonderful.
My two travel partners reaction is best summed up by Mags'comment when we reached the river after walking along Broadway she said:
" Oh the peacefulness here by the river is lovely ".
😏
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| The Cumberland River in Nashville |
It turns out that since my last visit here all the big country stars now own huge big bars on Broadway.
Some images from Broadway:
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| Kid Rock's Place |
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| The Original Grande Ole Opry |
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| Broadway |
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| Are these cutoff's or daisy dukes ? |
The Station Inn:
On the Friday night we all went to The Station Inn, got there at 6:45 before doors opened at 7, based on experience. The music started at 9 pm.
In the meantime you can drink bottled beer, one type of draft, cider while it lasts and definitely no wine.
The website claims all tickets are sold on a first come first served basis but each time I have been there several tables have reserved banners on them. For friends of the band perhaps?
The Station Inn website and event calendar are excellent. But even if you don't know the name of the artist playing just go along for the evening. The musicians are world class.
Now I can hear you now saying "......wait a second get there at 7 and wait two hours for music to start?" I know it's a commitment but trust me it's worth it.
I got speaking to two lovely ladies from mid-town Manhattan.
One Italian American who was recently widowed and her flagrantly "NY-Jewish" friend who was a pistol. They were both a lot of fun.
We heard Buddy Greene and friends. I have the poster hanging in my garage now.
The music was fantastic.(Perhaps old Buddy leaned a bit toward the religious but apart from that).
Take a wee listen:
We don't use UBER ever.
Nashville Day 2:
The following day we did a bunch of touristy things in the AM like visiting The Gaylord Palms hotel because its huge.
Then drove around the corner to the new Grande Ole Opry.
Both of these things were close to our hotel.
Then a shuttle bus into the city and a 2-3 hour tour of the Country and Western museum.
Well worth the time and cost.
Mags enjoyed a coffee while Frances and I explored the museum in some detail.
Another stroll in magnificently warm weather to Broadway with another authentic destination in mind, namely Robert's Western World.
Robert's Western World:
Robert's Western World, like The Station Inn, is another classic Nashville location.
Immigrant owned since 1999 Robert's is worth your time.
It was early afternoon, the ladies had plans to meet an old friend of Frances' later for dinner so they agreed to check out Robert's with me. I had refused the dinner invitation as I wanted to spend more time om Broadway and at Robert's in particular.
Bottled beer was $2 a bottle.
The bands in a lot of venues in Nashville, don't get paid.
They rely on customer tips.
I tipped a lot. With beer at $2 a bottle I could afford to.
The music was excellent in Robert's. Some covers and some original but all good.
As if cheap beer and good music weren't enough I noticed young folk ordering and eating the food.
So I ordered a cheese burger and fries. Cost me $5.00 for the most delicious burger and fries possible.
Simple, delicious and all from a flat top grill in the center of the main bar.
I know I had the best dinner of the three of us that evening.
I met loads of Buffalo Bills supporters, chatted to a few.
Had to humor the one Irish American guy who had visited Ireland just last year and wanted to tell me all about his trip and how wonderful it was. I was there to hear great country music, in a world famous bar, in a preeminent music city.
Ah well shure, he was a nice guy.
On my way out of downtown early that evening I decided to take a LYFT.
The guy who picked me up was driving with his teenage son in the front seat.
After a few sentences of conversation the driver leans across to his son and says "Listen up lad, yer man der in the back seat is from The South" (he meant The Irish South).
Turns out he was from Malin Head in Donegal, and had come to Nashville 15 years earlier as a musician. He no longer played but was still living there. Small world eh ?
I could return to Nashville any time and spent a week there.
In fact our Canadian friends Lynden and Dave did just that a few weeks after we left. They rented a suburban house and spent a week there. Sounds like a nice plan for a future trip.
I love Nashville.
Need to explore Printers Alley next time.
Eating in Nashville:
Reportedly there is good, even great, food to be had in Nashville we just didn't do a good job of looking for it.
I'd been told by a friend who lives there to look out in the residential suburbs and avoid eating downtown, because of the crowds.
Dinner the night we arrived was a bar on Broadway by the river - bland, boring and overpriced.
Cracker Barrell for breakfast on day 1 - not good.
Breakfast Day 2 was Bob Evans for me - better.
Ladies had breakfast Day 2 at hotel - No Comment.
Drive to Memphis via Pickwick Landing:
Southwest of Nashville, off Rte 100 just South of HWY 40 lies The Natchez Trace. A beautiful 400+ mile two lane blacktop that follows an historical trail from Nashville to Natchez, Ms.
We doglegged on and off this Natchez Trace from Nashville to Rte 64 then West on 64 to Waynesboro, Tn. continuing on another scenic route to Savannah, Tn. and then south to Pickwick Landing State Park. Where we stopped for the night.
The next day we took Rte128 back to Savannah, Tn.
I think we then turned West on Rte 64 to Bolivar, South on Rte 18 to la Grange and 57 to Hwy 385 and into Memphis.
A very pleasant surprise. That is how I would describe this route. The next day we took Rte128 back to Savannah, Tn.
I think we then turned West on Rte 64 to Bolivar, South on Rte 18 to la Grange and 57 to Hwy 385 and into Memphis.
The Natchez Trace - Nashville toward Memphis.
Take a moment and jump out to the National Park guide to the route and read all about it.
This 2-lane blacktop is well maintained and surrounded by beautiful scenery and littered with a great combination of American History.
The highlight for us was all the wildlife we spotted starting almost right away.
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| Colors were not this bold for us |
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| Armadillo in full flight |
Old Meriwether was never paid for his hard work opening The Oregon Trail.
He was commissioned and started his journey during Thomas Jefferson's Presidency but submitted his bills during the Madison Presidency. He never got paid in full. Bloody politicians.
We spend 4 beautiful hours dawdling along the Trace to Pickwick Landing.
I knew when planning the trip that I didn't want to just drive straight to Memphis on Sunday evening. So I had looked for a suitable place to stop.
I spotted Pickwick Landing State Park and thought why not. It'll be a new experience for France. visiting a Tennessee State Park.
A note about Southern Road Food:
- Apart from BBQ it sucks.
- If it can be fried it will be (fried green tomatoes, fried pickle).
- Grits are emblematic of the whole southern food culture, talked about a lot and tasteless.
- Fresh vegetables are extinct in most regular Southern Restaurants.
Now back to Pickwick Landing:
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| View of the Tennessee River from our balcony at Pickwick Landing |
I had asked the young lady on the phone when booking if they had a restaurant and bar. She confirmed they had both. But having traveled quite a bit in Virginia / Tennessee over the years I thought it best to inquire further into the food offered in the restaurant.
The young lady said restaurant was good, quite good in fact. During the summer folk will travel to their restaurant for dinner, she said. I was growing hopeful. So I asked her what is the mst popular item on the menu for dinner. She quickly stated the Reuben.
Yikes .... I knew I was in trouble.
I texted Frances in Ireland, or worse still perhaps she was in Italy, when I texted her this news about food in Tennessee. She somewhat tolerantly asked "What's a Reuben ?". I told her and was greeted with remonstrative silence across the phone lines.
Funny hotel pricing story:
I had been texting Frances quite a bit about hotel costs etc. in the planning of the trip.
It was during this exchange about Pickwick Landing that she shared a classically Irish (Essexford even) observation on things trip related.
She observed animatedly over the phone that "...hotels in America seemed to be quite expensive".
"Hmm I thought" and so I asked "Why do you say that?",
She replied "...well I was just planning a trip here in Ireland and could easily get a selection of hotels in the 80-90 Euro range, even on the weekend."
" Oh " says I " Where were you looking to travel to?"
"Limerick" she replied unabashedly.
Here we were booking hotels in some of the best know entertainment centers (Nashville, Memphis, New Orleans) in the world and she was comparing the prices to "Limerick" ! Limerick is un-affectionately known as Stab City.
I reminded Frances of this converstaion as we drove to Pickwick Landing. Where, I gleefully pointed out , the room prices were closer to her LImerick prices. She laughed.
So dinner before Pickwick Landing was a must.
I warned the ladies that this may be a Chez Mac evening. They were horrified, but I would have survived, thrived even.
So we arrived peckish in Savannah Tn.
Mags had spent 30-45 minutes on the phone finding what was open.
We settled on Yamato Steak House of Japan. For two reasons 1. It was open and 2. I figured the best chance of getting some fresh veg in the South was an Asian restaurant.
We had to drive almost all the way through town. But we found it. And on the outside of the door they promised WiFi.
Inside there were a few locals eating a good signb.
The staff all spoke with heavy foreign accents. I am unsure which Asian country they came from but regardless they were friendly and helpful.
Unfortunately their WiFi was spotty but that was ok.
We ordered a variety of dishes, with vegetables. And rice.
They were all very very good. We were happy campers upon departure. And the cost was unbelievably cheap.
I suggested we should pick up some snacks, beer and wine to enjoy at the hotel. Everyone agreed. So off we headed to The Walmart.
Another new cultural experience for Frances, a visit to the local Walmart.
I quickly got some chips, some candy and a six pack of MGD. I was hoping for Miller High Life, because it is the champagne of bottled beers. But beggars etc.
Choosing the wine took Frances a bit longer.
I should have told her to be less discerning, that the differentiating characteristic between wines in The Walmart was color. Is it Red or White. Everything else was marketing.
Mags came to her rescue.
For some reason on the way out, while still in the store, the ladies got a hankering for ice-cream. So I, knowingly, asked a local pair of shoppers if there was a Dairy Queen in town. They replied "Yeah Sir, just turn left at da lights, drive almost out of town and ya kent miss it. It'll be rat der on yir rait hand side."
And sure enough it was. Armed with three DQ Cones we set off for our hotel. The Inn at Pickwick Landing.
It was October and if we didn't have the place totally to ourselves I'd be surprised.
Staff were cheerful and happy. Rooms were very affordable (~$95 a night). We were here on a Sunday for just one night so it was fine.
Armed with our beer and wine we setup on the balcony of our room overlooking the Tennessee River.
A lovely view.
We needed to borrow a bottle opener for the wine, which we got at the front desk.
I went to the bar to check it out, it was nice but empty.
I asked if I could borrow two wine glasses to take back to my room.
My request was sent into the boss in an office right next to me, I could see him sitting there looking at a computer screen. Without looking up he answered no sorry, we lose too many glasses that way. People steal them.
OK !
We enjoyed our beer and wine and a nice chat on the balcony.
We watched a big thunder and lightning show blow past with spectacular flashes and a torrential downpour.
After a while I opened the crisps (potato chips) I had bought at Walmart. I was criticized at the time for buying them but not when I opened them. They were enjoyed by all. And even enjoyed by one of the ladies after they fell on the balcony floor !!!
On to Memphis:
We hit the road on Monday heading for Memphis.
We had passed this nice rustic looking restaurant called The Outpost on the way in the previous night and I guessed it would be a god place to stop for breakfast.
I was correct.
A lovely setting buried in the woods, and the food was decent.
I noticed posters around the restaurant for the old movie Walking Tall a great 1973 movie. It's based on the trueish story of Buford Pusser. We were in his part of the country, perhaps even Buford's county.
The lovely young waitress told me that she was very aware of the Pusser history but that modern retelling of the stories were that Pusser was not as clean as portrayed in the movie.
I suggested she look into the matter a bit deeper, and that bad people have a habit of re-writing history to suit their own needs.
The young waitress commented sagely that " Yeah despite all the information available on the internet the truth is harder to find now than ever".
We drove on to Memphis after breakfast.
Pickwick to Memphis:
I have no notes on this part of the drive but I know the scenery was lovely because I took a number of nice photos.
Memphis:
Memphis is as city on the Mississippi in the State of Tennessee.
Cross the bridge, over the Mississippi, to the West and you are in Arkansas.
Drive a few miles south and you are in the State of Mississippi.
Cross the bridge, over the Mississippi, to the West and you are in Arkansas.
Drive a few miles south and you are in the State of Mississippi.
Our hotel was right downtown. Walking distance to the river and to Beale Street.
But the route we took into the city was not inspiring. A lot of evident poverty.
Once again we were staying in a Marriott facility Springhill Suites Downtown Memphis.
The location of the hotel was fine.
The brand new Moxy Hotel is across the street, and is where I had originally booked, but its opening was delayed.
This was the only hotel that did not live up to my expectations. The rooms were a weird shape, modern but shaped oddly. I tried to get them to move us to a nicer property but no such luck. In any case it was only for three nights.
In the end we reduced our stay in Memphis to 2 nights and made a great decision to spend a night in Clarksdale, Ms instead.
The Beale Street strip is much much smaller than Nashville. We unfortunately were there on a Monday and Tuesday night and the entertainment pickings were a bit slim. But still very enjoyable.
We first visited BB Kings, where we both ate, the fried pickle was interesting, and enjoyed some good music.
Afterward we went to an outdoor location right on Beale Street just across the street from BB's and heard a band of young musicians play some really great Blues.
I smiled as I heard Chris Stapleton's Tennessee Whiskey played at both locations. A new blues standard already.
I really appreciate Mr. Stapleton's music and have been trying to elucidate my Irish siblings and in-laws on the beauty there-in.
I realized after the first night on Beale Street that there was not going to be enough to keep us in Memphis for 3 days. So I suggested we head south and spend a night in Clarksdale, where we were just planning a drive by.
Once I confirmed that there was:
1. A hotel and
2. Live Blues
we agreed to move on after two nights in Memphis.
On our last night there we got some more good music for a short while and had a delicious meal at a restaurant called Flight.
Clever serving ideas at Flight. Each course was available in smaller portions and in flights (groups). So you could order a flight of three starters and share amongst each other and the same for mains. desert and wine. The food was very good.
The history of Montgomery is built on cotton, slavery, the civil war and most famously Rosa Parks and the civil rights movement.
Once again we were staying in a Marriott facility Springhill Suites Downtown Memphis.
The location of the hotel was fine.
The brand new Moxy Hotel is across the street, and is where I had originally booked, but its opening was delayed.
This was the only hotel that did not live up to my expectations. The rooms were a weird shape, modern but shaped oddly. I tried to get them to move us to a nicer property but no such luck. In any case it was only for three nights.
In the end we reduced our stay in Memphis to 2 nights and made a great decision to spend a night in Clarksdale, Ms instead.
The Beale Street strip is much much smaller than Nashville. We unfortunately were there on a Monday and Tuesday night and the entertainment pickings were a bit slim. But still very enjoyable.
We first visited BB Kings, where we both ate, the fried pickle was interesting, and enjoyed some good music.
Afterward we went to an outdoor location right on Beale Street just across the street from BB's and heard a band of young musicians play some really great Blues.
I smiled as I heard Chris Stapleton's Tennessee Whiskey played at both locations. A new blues standard already.
I really appreciate Mr. Stapleton's music and have been trying to elucidate my Irish siblings and in-laws on the beauty there-in.
I realized after the first night on Beale Street that there was not going to be enough to keep us in Memphis for 3 days. So I suggested we head south and spend a night in Clarksdale, where we were just planning a drive by.
Once I confirmed that there was:
1. A hotel and
2. Live Blues
we agreed to move on after two nights in Memphis.
On our last night there we got some more good music for a short while and had a delicious meal at a restaurant called Flight.
Clever serving ideas at Flight. Each course was available in smaller portions and in flights (groups). So you could order a flight of three starters and share amongst each other and the same for mains. desert and wine. The food was very good.
Eating in Memphis:
With one noticeable exception, Flight, food was less than memorable.
Dinner at BB King's on the first night was tasty at the time but not at midnight in bed when heartburn set in. To be fair I had left it too late to eat that night.
Our food planning went a little awry in Memphis.
Our food planning went a little awry in Memphis.
Day 9: Unplanned and therefore, as usual for us, spectacular:
Clarksdale, Ms was always on the route.
I almost made a mistake and took us to Clarksville, Tn. after Nashville. I had even saved a Google Maps route through there. Luckily I caught the error months ago.
Clarksdale is where Robert Johnson sold is soul to the devil. Right here by The Crossroads.
I almost made a mistake and took us to Clarksville, Tn. after Nashville. I had even saved a Google Maps route through there. Luckily I caught the error months ago.
Clarksdale is where Robert Johnson sold is soul to the devil. Right here by The Crossroads.
And as a town it's so much more than that photo destination.
It's definitely worth two if not three nights.
We stayed at the Hampton Inn which is not a Marriott but a Hilton. It's a new hotel and very comfortable.
It's definitely worth two if not three nights.
We stayed at the Hampton Inn which is not a Marriott but a Hilton. It's a new hotel and very comfortable.
First getting to Clarksdale:
We were alongside the Mississippi river.
We started the day by driving across the great river in Memphis and into Arkansas just to click off another State.
We drove into West Memphis in Arkansas and then back across the great river.
Then we immediately left the Interstate and jumped on Hwy 61. I planned on sticking as close to "The Big Muddy" as possible all the way to Clarksdale and on to Vicksburg.
It was a beautiful day for the drive. Shortly into the drive we spotted cotton fields again so I stopped for photographs.
I had no idea we were stopping in Tunica, a truly fortuitous stop indeed.
Getting off the road to take these photos we passed this fantastic Visitor Center:
This visitor center was great.
So great we even bought stuff in the shop afterwards.
I got a T-Shirt, I never buy T Shirts with screen printed images on them but I did here.
Frances bought 2 or 3 T-Shirts I believe.
The visitor center included a very well maintained museum of Blues history. I wasn't going to go in but Mags advised me to.
I was glad I did.
The museum followed Blues history all the way through to British Blues.
Very fun and educational.
Tunica, the "town" closest to this visitor center is surrounded by Casino's. So finding a place to stay here would be easy. On another trip, as if, I might stay in Tunica for a night.
We met a group of 6-9 (they started off with 9 but were now down to 6) Englishmen who have been visiting this area for the past ~15 years.
They were going to drive across the Mississippi to Helena later that day for a blues festival that evening. They said there was no-place to stay in Helena so they were staying in Tunica.
They told us all about Clarksdale. And advised we eat at The Stone Pony.
We thought we would drive across "Old Blue" again and check out Helena, Arkansas before continuing on the short journey to Clarksdale.
Helena, Ar does not live up to it's website at all.
A very poor and run down town. Quite sad driving through it.
It still has a number of inhabitants. It may be trying to pick itself up by starting this 3 day blues festival. I hope it succeeds and it should because it's not unlike Clarksdale in both age and architecture.
Returning across the river we continued south on Rte 1.
Passing through Stovall, Farrell and Sherard, before turning East to Clarksdale.
The drive along Rte 1 was very pretty. Now and again we spotted raised embankments holding back the great river. I couldn't help thinking of Huckleberry Finn.
Mostly we drove through rich, meaning fertile, farmland.
I noticed a sign for a view point. So we stopped. This time I was the one to get out. The ladies stayed in the car. The view point was at a lake left over from, I'd guess, a flood of the Mississippi. The swamp like images were quite evocative as well as pretty.
I had to walk through a very pretty, but unwelcoming, Pecan orchard to get to this lake.
We started the day by driving across the great river in Memphis and into Arkansas just to click off another State.
We drove into West Memphis in Arkansas and then back across the great river.
Then we immediately left the Interstate and jumped on Hwy 61. I planned on sticking as close to "The Big Muddy" as possible all the way to Clarksdale and on to Vicksburg.
It was a beautiful day for the drive. Shortly into the drive we spotted cotton fields again so I stopped for photographs.
I had no idea we were stopping in Tunica, a truly fortuitous stop indeed.
 |
| Cotton Rolls |
 |
| Cotton Picker |
 |
| Cotton Rolls Close Up |
 |
| Well worth the cost and time. |
So great we even bought stuff in the shop afterwards.
I got a T-Shirt, I never buy T Shirts with screen printed images on them but I did here.
Frances bought 2 or 3 T-Shirts I believe.
The visitor center included a very well maintained museum of Blues history. I wasn't going to go in but Mags advised me to.
I was glad I did.
The museum followed Blues history all the way through to British Blues.
Very fun and educational.
Tunica, the "town" closest to this visitor center is surrounded by Casino's. So finding a place to stay here would be easy. On another trip, as if, I might stay in Tunica for a night.
We met a group of 6-9 (they started off with 9 but were now down to 6) Englishmen who have been visiting this area for the past ~15 years.
They were going to drive across the Mississippi to Helena later that day for a blues festival that evening. They said there was no-place to stay in Helena so they were staying in Tunica.
They told us all about Clarksdale. And advised we eat at The Stone Pony.
We thought we would drive across "Old Blue" again and check out Helena, Arkansas before continuing on the short journey to Clarksdale.
Helena, Ar does not live up to it's website at all.
A very poor and run down town. Quite sad driving through it.
It still has a number of inhabitants. It may be trying to pick itself up by starting this 3 day blues festival. I hope it succeeds and it should because it's not unlike Clarksdale in both age and architecture.
Returning across the river we continued south on Rte 1.
Passing through Stovall, Farrell and Sherard, before turning East to Clarksdale.
The drive along Rte 1 was very pretty. Now and again we spotted raised embankments holding back the great river. I couldn't help thinking of Huckleberry Finn.
Mostly we drove through rich, meaning fertile, farmland.
I noticed a sign for a view point. So we stopped. This time I was the one to get out. The ladies stayed in the car. The view point was at a lake left over from, I'd guess, a flood of the Mississippi. The swamp like images were quite evocative as well as pretty.
 |
| Wee Turtles |
I had to walk through a very pretty, but unwelcoming, Pecan orchard to get to this lake.
Clarksdale, Ms
Everything about Clarksdale was just delightful.
The hotel, a Hampton by Hilton, was new and offering fresh baked chocolate chip cookies on entry.
The rooms were very comfortable with great beds and nicely appointed showers.
We were "happy out", as they say.
I was going to put a link there to the definition of "Happy Out" but the web pages any link sent you too are littered with ads. You are welcome.
Food first. We got directions and drove downtown to The Stone Pony
Driving around Clarksdale is a wee bit hokey as there appears to be a river or canal that one has to cross (Mill Creek), repeatedly.
There is a pretty downtown. Well restored and worth a visit.
Driving around Clarksdale is a wee bit hokey as there appears to be a river or canal that one has to cross (Mill Creek), repeatedly.
There is a pretty downtown. Well restored and worth a visit.
The Stone Pony sits in the center of a number of stores on a street with an old fashioned raised sidewalk.
The store and others around it have a lot of exposed brick and metal. Really authentic looking.
Inside it's a barn sized place, nicely appointed though.
When we 3 entered we increased the customer population by 300%.
Our waitress was a lovely young girl, who's name regretfully I didn't write down, it was was her first day working there.
We asked about cocktails and she had to go ask if they could make cocktails.
They had a full bar, it's a blues town and so I figured I could get a Manhattan or at least an Old Fashioned. And Frances wanted a dirty martini. Mags had white wine.
They had a full bar, it's a blues town and so I figured I could get a Manhattan or at least an Old Fashioned. And Frances wanted a dirty martini. Mags had white wine.
Sure enough our waitress, I wish I could recall her name, returned and said yes they could make them both.
So we ordered cocktails and food. I know I had a pizza, I can't recall what the ladies had.
By the way our cute young waitress had no idea about the Robert Johnson relationship with Clarksdale and the link to blues music history.
We schooled her a bit about that and another waitress filled in with directions to the crossed guitars which the young lady had driven past frequently but never questioned. 😉
Looking around I caught the two bar staff "Googling" like crazy and looking up an old recipe book. Our cocktails may be the first of each they had made.
Exciting times, both for us and them.
Exciting times, both for us and them.
Cocktails arrived and they were just what the Doctor ordered. As was the food.
By now it was early evening, say around 5 or 6 o'clock. Too early for Blues which would start about 9 we were told.
However the Stone Pony was having it's own entertainment, it's weekly quiz night.
I waited with anticipation.
However the Stone Pony was having it's own entertainment, it's weekly quiz night.
I waited with anticipation.
I got the sense that the girls were maybe not as excited as I was about the whole "pub quiz" experience. But I persisted and pretended not to notice.
I have experience at Pub Quiz's. I even have a regular team name. Mine is " And The Winner Is" shortened to ATWIs for answer sheets. The quiz master chuckled at my hipstery wit.
The pub was quite full by the time the quiz started, no mean feat considering as I said earlier that it was a barn sized place.
I quickly got into the spirit of things and the girls participated enthusiastically.
If I was stuck during the Quiz I had no problem soliciting the help of the 5 ladies at the next table.
Once these fine ladies got over the shock of someone blatantly breaking the rules, by soliciting assistance, they enthusiastically joined in the misdemeanor.
Once these fine ladies got over the shock of someone blatantly breaking the rules, by soliciting assistance, they enthusiastically joined in the misdemeanor.
I love small town America, I really do.
I don't know how we did overall in the Quiz as we had to head out about 8:45 pm to listen to some blues.
We had a couple of choices as to where to go but we quickly chose "Reds". For obvious reasons.
We had a couple of choices as to where to go but we quickly chose "Reds". For obvious reasons.
Reds Live Music Venue:
It's not a bar, even though they serve beer.
Nor a restaurant, even though they serve BBQ.
It's simply what it says over the door a "Live Music Venue".
What a fantastic place.
Nor a restaurant, even though they serve BBQ.
It's simply what it says over the door a "Live Music Venue".
What a fantastic place.
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| The tubular shaped vehicle in front of venue is the BBQ |
The beer was served from plastic picnic coolers and deep chill boxes. They had a good selection. I drank Miller High Life "The Champagne of bottled beers".
The interior was packed with seating and a small dance floor.
The ceiling appeared to be caving in in places and there were tarps hanging in case it started to rain.
Behind the bar was jam packed full of empty beer cartons.
The bathrooms were growing a mold on almost every surface which had never before seen on this planet.
You couldn't ask for a more authentic venue. We all loved it.
There was, a well worth it, cover charge to get in.
I'd guess there were 150-200 people packed in there.
Not one of whom were from Mississippi.
We had people from Australia, Germany, England, The Netherlands and a contingent of Irish ladies from Listowel Co. Kerry no less.
Including ourselves there were no less than 3 groups from Ireland.
A few people got up and danced, the very attractive lady BBQ cook did a nice shimmy across the boards to encourage us all to get up and dance.
Video and music recording were actively discouraged.
The music was, I thought, great. Really great. A little threesome of guys with a fantastic singer.
We left around midnight and headed back to hotel fully satiated.
I'd go back to Clarksdale and, as I said, spend 2 maybe 3 nights here.
The interior was packed with seating and a small dance floor.
The ceiling appeared to be caving in in places and there were tarps hanging in case it started to rain.
Behind the bar was jam packed full of empty beer cartons.
The bathrooms were growing a mold on almost every surface which had never before seen on this planet.
You couldn't ask for a more authentic venue. We all loved it.
There was, a well worth it, cover charge to get in.
I'd guess there were 150-200 people packed in there.
Not one of whom were from Mississippi.
We had people from Australia, Germany, England, The Netherlands and a contingent of Irish ladies from Listowel Co. Kerry no less.
Including ourselves there were no less than 3 groups from Ireland.
A few people got up and danced, the very attractive lady BBQ cook did a nice shimmy across the boards to encourage us all to get up and dance.
Video and music recording were actively discouraged.
The music was, I thought, great. Really great. A little threesome of guys with a fantastic singer.
We left around midnight and headed back to hotel fully satiated.
I'd go back to Clarksdale and, as I said, spend 2 maybe 3 nights here.
Breakfast in Clarksdale:
You might have guessed by now that breakfast is a fairly big deal for me. I would not be satisfied by the hotel breakfast buffet.
I looked up breakfast places in Clarksdale and found this amazing diner , a half mile from the hotel:
Chamoun's Rest Haven is a Lebanese restaurant in Clarksdale, Ms. The story of how it and the Lebanese got here is worth reading.
The restaurant had a reasonable number of early morning eaters and coffee drinkers.
It was also doing a brisk take out and delivery business.
It was also doing a brisk take out and delivery business.
The menu has a number of Lebanese offerings, but it was breakfast so I stuck with bacon, eggs, hash browns toast and coffee.
As I was finishing my first cup of coffee a local at another table got up, picked up the coffee pot and after filling his own cup went around each table filling the cups of anyone who wanted more. I thanked him when he refilled mine.
It was just that sort of place. It fit perfectly into our overall Clarksdale experience.
We drove south on Rte 1 all the way to Tallula, Ms before rejoining Rte 61 for the last little stretch into Vicksburg.
On Rte 1 we hugged as closely as possible to the Mississippi.
We saw a lot of cotton, churches, poverty and more churches.
Don't be fooled by the towns that show up on the map along Rte 1 in dark bold font, giving the impression of heft, size and significance.
These towns, like Greenville as an example, grew up on cotton and agriculture and all the attendant misery and hardship that goes along with both.
Zillow has a 5 bedroom 4 bathroom home in Greenville listed for $218k. Even at that price I couldn't live there.
We spent some time looking up the population of a few towns we had just passed through and roughly calculating the average congregation per church based on the number we had counted.
200 congregants would be an optimistic average number.
A wise friend back home in Los Angeles made the point that Churches in "The South" are not just about worship. They are an industry, creating both wealth and jobs in an economically challenged environment.
It was a long day of driving to Vicksburg, MS.
A very historic small city.
The State to our West across the river was no longer Arkansas, but Louisiana.
New Orleans, Louisiana was getting closer.
In Vicksburg I had hoped to do quite a bit of sight seeing. It's a famous civil war town.
But while my spirit was willing, my flesh was weak. My left knee was hurting quite a bit by now. So instead I took a nap.
I got up later and joined the ladies on the lovely outdoor patio of the hotel and we had a few cocktails.
The hotel was a Courtyard Marriott. They had a full bar and served tapas style dishes on the patio. The ladies had eaten by the time I got up.
I enjoyed my cocktails and ran out to a Subway before going to bed and got a comforting ham and cheese sandwich for myself.
Sorry we didn't get to see the sights of Vicksburg. but c'est la vie.
It was just that sort of place. It fit perfectly into our overall Clarksdale experience.
The drive to Vicksburg.
We drove south on Rte 1 all the way to Tallula, Ms before rejoining Rte 61 for the last little stretch into Vicksburg.
On Rte 1 we hugged as closely as possible to the Mississippi.
We saw a lot of cotton, churches, poverty and more churches.
Don't be fooled by the towns that show up on the map along Rte 1 in dark bold font, giving the impression of heft, size and significance.
These towns, like Greenville as an example, grew up on cotton and agriculture and all the attendant misery and hardship that goes along with both.
Zillow has a 5 bedroom 4 bathroom home in Greenville listed for $218k. Even at that price I couldn't live there.
Churches, so many of them.
Frances in particular got a great kick out of noticing all the churches.We spent some time looking up the population of a few towns we had just passed through and roughly calculating the average congregation per church based on the number we had counted.
200 congregants would be an optimistic average number.
A wise friend back home in Los Angeles made the point that Churches in "The South" are not just about worship. They are an industry, creating both wealth and jobs in an economically challenged environment.
Vicksburg, Ms
It was a long day of driving to Vicksburg, MS.
A very historic small city.
The State to our West across the river was no longer Arkansas, but Louisiana.
New Orleans, Louisiana was getting closer.
In Vicksburg I had hoped to do quite a bit of sight seeing. It's a famous civil war town.
But while my spirit was willing, my flesh was weak. My left knee was hurting quite a bit by now. So instead I took a nap.
I got up later and joined the ladies on the lovely outdoor patio of the hotel and we had a few cocktails.
The hotel was a Courtyard Marriott. They had a full bar and served tapas style dishes on the patio. The ladies had eaten by the time I got up.
I enjoyed my cocktails and ran out to a Subway before going to bed and got a comforting ham and cheese sandwich for myself.
Sorry we didn't get to see the sights of Vicksburg. but c'est la vie.
And onto New Orleans:
The next day was looking like another long drive.
I can't recall what we did for breakfast but I suspect it was the hotel offering.
I can't recall what we did for breakfast but I suspect it was the hotel offering.
Following Hwy 61 we again picked up The Natchez Trace, and took that all the way into Natchez. Just so we could say we had book-ended "The Trace". Nashville and Natchez.
From there we scurried on down Hwy 61 crossed into Louisiana and continued on past Baton Rouge.
If we had had more time, like another day, I would have liked to detour here to Avery Island where Tabasco sauce is made. Only because of the historical links between the McIlhenny's and Ireland.
Another McIlhenny is famous in Ireland for having donated Glenveagh Castle and grounds to the nation of Ireland. It's now preserved as a National Park. A very beautiful and photogenic one at that.
Even though both these American McIlhenny's hail from County Donegal I can find no mention of any familial link between the two families.
Even though both these American McIlhenny's hail from County Donegal I can find no mention of any familial link between the two families.
I find this lack of a link hard to believe as their families both left Ireland around the same time and from the same County. Both were smart enough to make fortunes from inventions. One was Tabasco Sauce and the other invented The Gas Meter.
There is surely a story here worth ... manufacturing?
New Orleans:
We stayed at the Renaissance by Marriott.
A great central location within a miles walk from the action, namely The French Quarter.
I took a short nap, the ladies went out exploring alone. I was just heading out myself when they returned. So I headed out alone, and let them rest.
They would research dinner while I was out.
I wanted to see The French Quarter and determine exactly how far from our hotel it was.
I have visited New Orleans twice before. The first time bad weather forced a flight I was on to stop at New Orleans on my birthday. A story for another day. Thank you Dickie Brennans though.
About 100 blocks of delicious, decadence and debauchery, that becomes more raucous and rambunctious as the night goes on.
The boundaries are Canal Street on one side, Esplanade on the other. Decatur on the River side and North Rampart Street on the opposite.
The Quarter was about a mile from hotel.
I was surprised to see a Harrah's Casino as I was heading for Canal Street.
I walked the length of Decatur Street, passing Cafe DuMonde along the way.
People ask:
Q: Have you eaten Beignets and drank Chicory Coffee in New Orleans
A: Yes
Q At Cafe DuMonde ?
A: Been by there.
This is called "being conservative with the truth".
The line up at Cafe DuMonde was down the block. All the time we were there. And I cannot stand Chicory Coffee. Too bitter for me.
At Esplanade I turned left and left again on Royal, I wanted to avoid Bourbon Street as it's always busy, and had a lovely stroll along a residential street in The Quarter.
Came across this great wedding happening as I was walking by.
Wedding Video
A guy wearing a great T-Shirt let me photo it after I promised to not photo his face.
Privacy matters.
I got back to the hotel but cannot recall where we went for dinner that first night.
Afterward we went to Pat O'Brien's.
It's next door to the famous Preservation Hall.
Mags sat with me as I enjoyed a cigar and some cocktails at O'Brien's in the outdoor courtyard.
Frances enjoyed a "hurricane" and she also went next door and heard some good jazz.
We just hung out at O'Brien's for a few hours and then set out walking back to hotel.
I took the ladies along Bourbon Street on the way home just to see it. It's always so wild and crazy. And it was raining a little this particular evening.
Now that I think of it I had not eaten dinner that evening.
I was hungry on the way back to hotel.
I wish I had recalled Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse. They saved my life, by feeding me dinner, the first time I visited New Orleans.
Instead I made us spend way too much money on too much bad food in an almost empty restaurant on the corner of Jackson Square.
The Corner Oyster House it seemed like a popular spot early in the day, not so much when we visited.
Along the way we saw nature absorb it's shackles.
We got breakfast at a nice little coffee shop on Decatur.
I cannot recall it's name but it was across the street from the, being built, Hard Rock Cafe. (More about that later).
Along Decatur is a National Park. The French Quarter Visitor Center. We spent a pleasant couple of hours here enjoying the exhibits.
The courtyard outside the visitor center is as you would expect of any US National Park to be.
Clean, comfortable and well maintained.
The berries on the bush alongside the little fountain in the photo above are very pretty
We continued on to almost the end of Decatur to The New Orleans Jazz National Park. Here we watched some native African Dance and live music for about 30 minutes.
We then continued our stroll to Jackson Square.
Since it was Sunday we were treated to a lively colorful outdoor Art Gallery.
As is our wont Mags and I have a budget of $100 for pieces of art from our travels. We started doing this a few years ago in Amsterdam.
We have quite the wee gallery growing now at home.
We bought one picture to take back to Ca.
The artist above is Russian with a Masters in Art History and primary degree in Civil Engineering. Civil Engineering to pay the bills she says.
Frances bought hers to take back to Ireland from Rene Perez Lopez.
A lovely guy, who spent 20 years in the Marines as a photographer. Rene gave me a great tip on taking photos which I still use. Always use your lens hood.
I now follow him on Instagram.
Rene gave Frances, after she asked, very specific instructions on how best, in his opinion, to frame the work.
So specific in fact Frances had me text the details to her so she would have them available when she got home.The basic request was to not stretch the canvas but to "Float Mount" it on a matte within a frame.
Now the closest town to where Frances lives is Carrickmacross. With a population of about 5k it's not too small by Irish standards but not very big either.
Upon her return home Frances proceeded to have her painting framed, in Carrick.
She contacted me, via text again, saying her framer hadn't a notion what the instructions meant and wondered could I clarify.
So being the Google guru, relatively, that I am I spent 2 minutes reviewing a few different YouTube videos on how to "Float Mount" a canvas. I then sent her a link to the best one.
YouTube may not have reached Carrick. I guess. Perhaps Ireland's national broadband plan will fix this.
This anecdote amuses me a little.😎
My guess is the phrase "Float Mount" was the unknown factor, its probably called something else in Carrick.
I look forward to seeing the finished product. 😢
A great central location within a miles walk from the action, namely The French Quarter.
I took a short nap, the ladies went out exploring alone. I was just heading out myself when they returned. So I headed out alone, and let them rest.
They would research dinner while I was out.
I wanted to see The French Quarter and determine exactly how far from our hotel it was.
I have visited New Orleans twice before. The first time bad weather forced a flight I was on to stop at New Orleans on my birthday. A story for another day. Thank you Dickie Brennans though.
My definition of the French Quarter:
About 100 blocks of delicious, decadence and debauchery, that becomes more raucous and rambunctious as the night goes on.
The boundaries are Canal Street on one side, Esplanade on the other. Decatur on the River side and North Rampart Street on the opposite.
An Sceal (The Story) New Orleans Day 1:
The Quarter was about a mile from hotel.
I was surprised to see a Harrah's Casino as I was heading for Canal Street.
I walked the length of Decatur Street, passing Cafe DuMonde along the way.
People ask:
Q: Have you eaten Beignets and drank Chicory Coffee in New Orleans
A: Yes
Q At Cafe DuMonde ?
A: Been by there.
This is called "being conservative with the truth".
The line up at Cafe DuMonde was down the block. All the time we were there. And I cannot stand Chicory Coffee. Too bitter for me.
At Esplanade I turned left and left again on Royal, I wanted to avoid Bourbon Street as it's always busy, and had a lovely stroll along a residential street in The Quarter.
Came across this great wedding happening as I was walking by.
A guy wearing a great T-Shirt let me photo it after I promised to not photo his face.
Privacy matters.
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| Someone important to me is named Zelda |
I got back to the hotel but cannot recall where we went for dinner that first night.
Afterward we went to Pat O'Brien's.
It's next door to the famous Preservation Hall.
Mags sat with me as I enjoyed a cigar and some cocktails at O'Brien's in the outdoor courtyard.
Frances enjoyed a "hurricane" and she also went next door and heard some good jazz.
We just hung out at O'Brien's for a few hours and then set out walking back to hotel.
I took the ladies along Bourbon Street on the way home just to see it. It's always so wild and crazy. And it was raining a little this particular evening.
Now that I think of it I had not eaten dinner that evening.
I was hungry on the way back to hotel.
I wish I had recalled Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse. They saved my life, by feeding me dinner, the first time I visited New Orleans.
Instead I made us spend way too much money on too much bad food in an almost empty restaurant on the corner of Jackson Square.
The Corner Oyster House it seemed like a popular spot early in the day, not so much when we visited.
New Orleans Day 2:
We started the day by walking back toward The Quarter.Along the way we saw nature absorb it's shackles.
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| Nature absorbing it's shackles. |
We got breakfast at a nice little coffee shop on Decatur.
I cannot recall it's name but it was across the street from the, being built, Hard Rock Cafe. (More about that later).
Along Decatur is a National Park. The French Quarter Visitor Center. We spent a pleasant couple of hours here enjoying the exhibits.
The courtyard outside the visitor center is as you would expect of any US National Park to be.
Clean, comfortable and well maintained.
The berries on the bush alongside the little fountain in the photo above are very pretty
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| American Beauty Berry |
We continued on to almost the end of Decatur to The New Orleans Jazz National Park. Here we watched some native African Dance and live music for about 30 minutes.
We then continued our stroll to Jackson Square.
Since it was Sunday we were treated to a lively colorful outdoor Art Gallery.
As is our wont Mags and I have a budget of $100 for pieces of art from our travels. We started doing this a few years ago in Amsterdam.
We have quite the wee gallery growing now at home.
We bought one picture to take back to Ca.
The artist above is Russian with a Masters in Art History and primary degree in Civil Engineering. Civil Engineering to pay the bills she says.
Frances bought hers to take back to Ireland from Rene Perez Lopez.
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| Rene Perez Lopez |
A lovely guy, who spent 20 years in the Marines as a photographer. Rene gave me a great tip on taking photos which I still use. Always use your lens hood.
I now follow him on Instagram.
Funny story about Frances' painting.
As you can see the canvas is not stretched on a frame. I don't know if it was when Rene painted it but selling them this way is good as tourists can transport them more easily.Rene gave Frances, after she asked, very specific instructions on how best, in his opinion, to frame the work.
So specific in fact Frances had me text the details to her so she would have them available when she got home.The basic request was to not stretch the canvas but to "Float Mount" it on a matte within a frame.
Now the closest town to where Frances lives is Carrickmacross. With a population of about 5k it's not too small by Irish standards but not very big either.
Upon her return home Frances proceeded to have her painting framed, in Carrick.
She contacted me, via text again, saying her framer hadn't a notion what the instructions meant and wondered could I clarify.
So being the Google guru, relatively, that I am I spent 2 minutes reviewing a few different YouTube videos on how to "Float Mount" a canvas. I then sent her a link to the best one.
YouTube may not have reached Carrick. I guess. Perhaps Ireland's national broadband plan will fix this.
This anecdote amuses me a little.😎
My guess is the phrase "Float Mount" was the unknown factor, its probably called something else in Carrick.
I look forward to seeing the finished product. 😢
Day 2 continued:
Art acquired, I decided to head back to hotel for a nap. My knee was really hurting.
The ladies continued on to a couple of other parts of the city.
I decided to take a cab back, because as I said my knee was really hurting.
I noticed the cab was getting caught in traffic and heading in a direction that seemed not the most direct.
I wondered why and the nice cab driver said all he knew was that all the streets in The Quarter were mostly blocked off to traffic.
A minute later he tells me the reason for the road blocks had just come up on his phone. The Hard Rock Cafe, that we had had breakfast across the street from just a few hours ago, had fallen down.
Seriously, brand new construction, had collapsed.
Three people were killed and a large number injured. There is an ongoing investigation into the cause, apparently.
Seriously, brand new construction, had collapsed.
Three people were killed and a large number injured. There is an ongoing investigation into the cause, apparently.
It's sad to say but it's my expectation that this "investigation" will not yield much. This is New Orleans after all.
"Investigations" in The South in general and perhaps in New Orleans in particular don't reveal a lot in my experience.
P.S. Before dinner we spent an hour or so changing Frances' return flights to Ireland. She needed to get home sooner than planned, skipping a solo trip to Savannah Ga., due to a very sad family illness.
I am happy to say that I managed to save her a couple of hundred $ on these changes.
I am happy to say that I managed to save her a couple of hundred $ on these changes.
Meril's
Later that evening we started out listening to some very good guitar playing in the lobby of the hotel.
Then we walked a few blocks to Meril restaurant.
This is one of Emeril Lagasse's restaurants.
If you watch The Food Channel as much as I do you know who Emeril is. "Bam".
This is one of Emeril Lagasse's restaurants.
If you watch The Food Channel as much as I do you know who Emeril is. "Bam".
The food was fantastic. We all loved it. I would return in a heartbeat.
Afterward we returned to the hotel and had a cocktail or two before turning in for the night.
We had a long drive to Montgomery, Al the next day and so an early start was in order.
Montgomery, Alabama.
The next morning Mags and I walked to an apparently famous breakfast restaurant not far from the hotel. Mothers.
Each time we had passed this place there was a lineup outside waiting to get in.
At seven AM on a Monday morning we got in quickly and took a look around. I knew immediately we had made a mistake. There was nothing that looked remotely like breakfast food on the menu.
At seven AM on a Monday morning we got in quickly and took a look around. I knew immediately we had made a mistake. There was nothing that looked remotely like breakfast food on the menu.
We ordered an overpriced "country ham" sandwich with some coffee and grits. We ate what we could and promptly left.
Famous it may be but I won't return.
Luckily we caught Frances as we exited the restaurant and saved her the experience.
Luckily we caught Frances as we exited the restaurant and saved her the experience.
We set off out of New Orleans bright and early adding another accomplishment to our trip. We crossed the longest bridge in the world while exiting the city.
We, almost immediately upon leaving the hotel, got onto the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway. Listed in The Guinness Book of World Records as the longest bridge over water (continuous) in the world.
We, almost immediately upon leaving the hotel, got onto the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway. Listed in The Guinness Book of World Records as the longest bridge over water (continuous) in the world.
With a 4 plus hours drive ahead of us we jumped on Hwy 10 to Mobile and then caught Hwy 65 all the way to Montgomery, Al. Mobile looks like it may be worth a visit in the future. Lots of Casinos.
Several traffic delays caused us to follow Google Maps across some pretty Alabama country roads before getting back on Hwy 65 into downtown Montgomery.
Montgomery was the second very pleasant surprise of the trip.
Montgomery is a beautiful riverside city. The river is the Alabama River.
Steeped in history, mostly brutal history but history all the same.
Steeped in history, mostly brutal history but history all the same.
Our hotel was a brand new Springhill Suites on Coosa Street. It had just opened earlier in the month.
It had been an old cotton warehouse or gin in the past.
It had been an old cotton warehouse or gin in the past.
The hotel is luxurious. We had fantastic rooms.
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| Building across the road from hotel. |
The architecture is very attractive. Old red brick buildings and a nice walkway down to the river.
Montgomery is the home of Rosa Parks and the famous bus boycott.
Martin Luther King Jnr. had a church here.
Surprisingly the young black girl manning the reception desk at the hotel wasn't immediately aware that MLK had ministered here at a church within walking distance from the hotel.
Martin Luther King Jnr. had a church here.
Surprisingly the young black girl manning the reception desk at the hotel wasn't immediately aware that MLK had ministered here at a church within walking distance from the hotel.
We were befuddled by this lack of awareness and were commenting on it while riding the elevator to our rooms. Another passenger on the elevator, a young black lady dressed for business, said " It is shocking indeed, I will make sure she knows all her civil rights history before I depart ". Good on you young lady.
Equal Justice Initiative:
Across from the hotel is a museum and information center called the Equal Justice Initiative.
Plan to spend a minimum of 4 hours visiting this museum.
And on a second day visit it's sister memorial The National Memorial for Peace and Justice.
They are both privately funded.
They are both incredibly moving.
They are both incredibly moving.
You may hear a lot about both shortly (Nov 2019) as there is a movie coming out about its founder. The movie is called Just Mercy, based on a book by the same name.
I have found a new destination for all my meager charitable contributions going forward.
Please take the time to investigate both these museums and what they stand for.
The river front at Montgomery is very pretty both scenically and architecturally.
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| Cotton rolled down these slopes onto boats once. |
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| The Alabama |
Has Montgomery overcome it's past ?
It may be starting to as it has recently elected it's first "black mayor".
However when I Googled who is mayor of Montgomery while writing this blog the current mayor did not show up. 8 weeks after historically electing it's first "black mayor"., the old white guy still showed up.I let Google know.It's fixed now.
(Update: Google got back to me, here is their response.
Thank you for submitting feedback on Google Search. You’re receiving this email to update you about your submission.
(Update: Google got back to me, here is their response.
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Your suggested edit to Todd Strange has been approved for Google Search. It may take some time for this change to be reflected on Search, but you can check for it here. Please note that information on Google Search is always open to feedback from our users and can change based on what they say.
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====================
Todd Strange no longer the mayor of Montgomery. Steven Reed is )
I did find this regarding the historic election.
The city seems to continue to just get things wrong.
For example on the way down the walkway to the river there is a statue to the country singer Hank Williams, he was born in Mount Olive, Alabama, 66 miles from Montgomery, and he is buried in Montgomery.
Two other singers were actually born in Montgomery, World famous both.
Namely Clarence Carter and Nat King Cole.
Why then a statue in Montgomery to Hank Williams, who's music I love, and no statue to Carter or Cole.
Is color/race a part of the answer to this question ?
Arguably Nat King Cole in particular would be more famous around the world than Hank Williams.
We ate dinner that evening in a restaurant in The Alley across from the hotel. Wasabi.
A Japanese steak restaurant. Food and cocktails were excellent.
The Maitre 'd insisted I try this local sauce with my dish. He called it Yum Yum sauce it looked like Thousand Island dressing and was absolutely delicious.My guess it it was loaded with MSG.
Did you know MSG stands for Mother Sucking Good.
Did you know MSG stands for Mother Sucking Good.
Montgomery to Atlanta:
The following day we left early as we had been warned traffic to Atlanta would be unpredictable.
We first stopped at the King Memorial Baptist Church to quickly pay our respects.
We also spent a couple of incredibly moving hours at the National Memorial for Peace and Justice.
Our flights out were around 8 or 9 pm. So we both spent time in different Terminals getting ready to head home.
A great time was had by all.
My thoughts on the American South:
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| Painted on the wall of a building in Montgomery, Al |
This was a great trip, make no mistakes about that.
The history, culture, music and food. It was and will remain a once in a lifetime experience.
But I feel I have to say something regarding my hangover feelings about The South. This commentary about The South is my own and may not be shared by my fellow travelers.
If you Google Search "The American South" this wiki page shows up Culture of The Southern United States.
The opening paragraph of this Culture of the Southern United States wiki page declares that " many Southerners maintain—and even nurture—an identity separate from the rest of the country ".
That is one way of putting it I guess.
Slavery is not mentioned in the opening paragraph of the wiki page but is somewhat hidden away in the second paragraph under history.
It's my opinion that slavery, and it's legacy of racism, is "the separate identity" Southerners continue to nurture.
Slavery is not mentioned in the opening paragraph of the wiki page but is somewhat hidden away in the second paragraph under history.
It's my opinion that slavery, and it's legacy of racism, is "the separate identity" Southerners continue to nurture.
As an Irish immigrant, living in North America for for most of my life, what I encountered in The American South reminds me a lot of what I encounter in Northern Ireland.
In both places ideas and opinions persist, perhaps even dominate, that are backward looking, divisive and destructive despite the passage of time and the evolution of cultural norms.
In both places ideas and opinions persist, perhaps even dominate, that are backward looking, divisive and destructive despite the passage of time and the evolution of cultural norms.
So much poverty and division, in both places, surrounded by so many churches.
Those in The South that cherish the civil war and the Johnny Rebel flag share a common fate with Nazi-ism.
They were both defeated. They both lost. They are both losing notions and ideas.
But unlike The South, Germany has done a great job of re-educating their children about how wrong their ideas were. And they have thrived as a nation as a result. Thrived both economically and morally.
Politicians in The American South might pay heed to Germany's lessons.
The American South we saw on our trip is surely economically impoverished and I suspect it remains morally impoverished also.
Just like it's poor cousins Orange and Green in Northern Ireland, they just don't get the idea that "United we stand Divided we fall".
Those in The South that cherish the civil war and the Johnny Rebel flag share a common fate with Nazi-ism.
They were both defeated. They both lost. They are both losing notions and ideas.
But unlike The South, Germany has done a great job of re-educating their children about how wrong their ideas were. And they have thrived as a nation as a result. Thrived both economically and morally.
Politicians in The American South might pay heed to Germany's lessons.
The American South we saw on our trip is surely economically impoverished and I suspect it remains morally impoverished also.
Just like it's poor cousins Orange and Green in Northern Ireland, they just don't get the idea that "United we stand Divided we fall".
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